The trades behind a Swiss watch: who does what

Draws the look of the watch: proportions, case shape, dial layout, hands and typography. Works from your brief and produces renderings and design files.

Turns the design into technical drawings with dimensions and tolerances, makes sure the movement, dial, hands and case fit together, and prepares the files suppliers produce from.

Produces the first physical parts or complete prototypes, so the design can be checked and adjusted before tooling and series production.

Develops and produces complete movements, or the ébauche (the base kit of plates and bridges) that others finish and assemble. Most micro-brands buy finished movements from these companies.

Produces small turned parts, such as screws, pinions, stems and axles, on automatic lathes. Bar turning is one of the backbone industries of the Jura arc.

Finishes the pivots, the tiny polished ends of wheels and axles that turn in the jewels. Precise, smooth pivots reduce friction and wear.

Makes the regulating organ of a mechanical watch: the hairspring, balance wheel and escapement parts. Very few companies master these components.

Produces the synthetic ruby jewels that serve as low-friction bearings for the moving parts of the movement.

Cuts and stamps flat parts, such as plates, bridges, springs and dial blanks, from metal sheet using dedicated tools.

Machines or stamps the middle case, bezel and case back, then finishes them. Responsible for water resistance features such as gaskets and screw-down backs.

Produces the dial: the blank, surface finishes (sunburst, grained, lacquer), printing of the markings, and fitting of the indexes and logo.

Cuts, shapes and finishes the hands, and produces applied indexes and logos fixed onto the dial.

Cuts and polishes the crystal, usually synthetic sapphire for quality watches, and applies anti-reflective coatings.

Makes the crown used to wind and set the watch, and the pushers of chronographs, including their seals for water resistance.

Produces metal bracelets, links and clasps, and in some cases leather or rubber straps and buckles.

Applies the luminous material on the dial indexes and hands, so the watch can be read in the dark.

Gives the case and bracelet their final surfaces, alternating polished and brushed (satin) finishes. Good polishing keeps edges sharp and lines crisp.

Applies traditional movement decorations, such as Geneva stripes (Côtes de Genève), perlage (circular graining) and anglage (bevelled, polished edges).

Engraves fine geometric patterns, traditionally with a hand-operated rose engine, mostly on dials and rotors.

Fires layers of vitreous enamel onto dials at high temperature. A slow, demanding craft with a high rejection rate, used on high-end pieces.

Sets diamonds or precious stones on the bezel, case, dial or bracelet.

Applies coatings such as galvanic plating, PVD or DLC to change colour or increase resistance, and heat treatments that harden parts.

Assembles and lubricates the movement parts, then adjusts the functions. This is stage T1 of watch assembly.

Adjusts the rate of the movement so the watch keeps accurate time, measuring it in several positions.

Fits the dial and hands onto the movement, then cases the watch and closes it (stage T2). Often the step a micro-brand outsources first.

Checks the watch at each stage: timekeeping, water resistance, function and appearance. The manufacturer's final inspection is one of the Swiss Made conditions.

Services and repairs watches after sale. Plan for after-sales service before you launch, as your customers will need it.

Coordinates the whole chain for you, sources the parts, assembles and inspects the watches, and delivers them under your brand. Compare the routes in private label or your own supply chain.